沙漠之虎 |
2021-04-02 12:57 |
它不算大,全部景致都是围绕一馆一池徐徐展开,结构简单,却很耐看。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A7/81/CoUBYGBipA-Af12hABJSXyoLAq4700.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 馆西侧一棵二乔玉兰在雨中摇曳。今年玉兰开得早,到这个时候居然还有。我们学校的已经凋谢了。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A7/86/CoUBYGBipBKAHVE0ABFF_q2UkYc384.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 这座黄色小亭子我以前怎么没见过?在细雨中更显亮丽。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A7/8C/CoUBYGBipBSAIZApABTcNK_d92Q738.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
4.3 小金山
从徐园向北,跨过“小虹桥”就来到瘦西湖上最大的岛屿—— 小金山。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/92/0F/CoUBYGBimJ2ASwb7ABUR2XOHTq4733.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 桥畔的白碧桃还都是花骨朵。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A8/2E/CoUBYGBkLUuACMXdABMgzTQwzBA509.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 在小虹桥上可远眺五亭桥和吹台。杨柳堆烟,春花无重数。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/AC/F3/CoUBYGBkMSmAD49cAAkhMHzsOe8660.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
小金山是一座地势有起伏的小园林。神话传说中说: 扬州是红尘繁华之地,世俗味太重,山都不愿过江,结果有位法力高超的高僧把 镇江 的金山借了过来。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/92/15/CoUBYGBimKCAUe2uAAxErYjuerg911.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 就这么高。不过 镇江那座真正的金山能有多高呢?不过29米。这种山和真正的山岳比,都是盆景,靠的是园林的意境。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/93/0B/CoUBYGBimTKAJ-KUABZMmASflO0203.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 山下有一棵只剩树皮还能存活的古树,称为“枯木逢春”;山腰有一座小巧的“观音殿”,底下是“古佛洞”。门道还不少。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/93/4E/CoUBYGBimViAX2GVABBJyHtuG94749.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 黄石假山和真正的土山混合在一起,遍植翠竹,郁郁葱葱。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/94/14/CoUBYGBimbiAE92qABYPzirzzHs655.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 山虽矮,但有起承转合,登山路也是一波三折,颇有味道。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/95/AA/CoUBYGBimpOAAoIAABRO3JYCVFg489.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 最终来到山顶的风亭。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/95/AF/CoUBYGBimpWAYVpwAAtX3qmrCuw908.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 向西俯瞰,下面是观音阁,西面的湖很开阔,此处可以称为湖了。瘦西湖的灵魂——五亭桥遥遥在望。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/95/B6/CoUBYGBimpmAIN18ABL3avSvEis937.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 向东俯瞰,“四桥烟雨”赫然出现,让人眼前一亮。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/95/BE/CoUBYGBimp2Ab7L9ABApBrjaYrM722.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
4.4 吹台
小金 山是座三角形的岛屿,下图能依稀看到,北有玉板桥通往瘦西 湖岸,南有小虹桥通往徐园。而它的西侧有一条狭长的“半岛”伸向湖中。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/47/A0/CoUBYGBj1-qAVBBRABbTP6GAIEw507.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 半岛的入口处已经能看到白塔和五亭桥,而这条狭长的半岛也是一条烟柳长堤。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/AB/84/CoUBYGBkL_KATGetAAsce9m2FJc575.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
它是断头路,走过去还得走回来。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/48/8B/CoUBYGBj2G2AU5ubABZN6jMki7k411.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 这么费时费力地“折返跑”,只为看看尽头那座著名的“吹台”。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/77/CoUBYGBXagqAOGoTABfgT1_Io5o517.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 远眺南岸的“澄鲜水榭”。垂柳姿态万千。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/AC/40/CoUBYGBkMH2AB7rnABIM8hlb18I051.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 桃花也不少。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/91/62/CoUBYGBimEiAaQ1WABIihlP3nF8944.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 瘦西湖游客扎堆的地方有三个:五亭桥、廿四桥,还有这个吹台。廿四桥是诗词里给予的名气;五亭桥靠自身的硬实力;吹台则是最好的观景点 它也叫“钓 鱼台 ”,传说乾陵在这儿钓过鱼。它有三个月亮门,其中两个,可以把远处的五亭桥和白塔分别框进去,犹如两面团扇,妙不可言。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/75/CoUBYGBXagaAYPFAAAkIRKmCGNU813.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) “吹台”的名字可能是因为有人在这吹笛或吹箫,让皇帝陶醉了。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/4C/2E/CoUBYGBj2z6AIKb4AAhE_0KVFNg778.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 每次游瘦西湖,吹台和五亭桥我都必去。这里放眼一望,才有“湖”的感觉。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/4C/E7/CoUBYGBj27aAAlpHAAgB8p7NTMk380.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 告别吹台,原路返回,从玉板桥走过,从北岸去五亭桥。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/91/1F/CoUBYGBimCWAM1FrABNJ-0CFENQ721.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 玉板桥是座造型优美的拱桥。桥上一望,清晰的看见左边的 小金山岛是个三角形。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/90/F2/CoUBYGBimAyAK3vRABI1SCqfjMQ958.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 沿湖的北岸一路向西,途中发现,远观吹台比近看更美。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/6B/CoUBYGBXaf2ANvY5ABBRZJa8HPA589.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 上有粉红桃花,下有金黄连翘,印衬着这座精致的小黄亭。“花好月圆”,“雨润红姿”,烟花三月的瘦西湖,就是这样迷人。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/64/CoUBYGBXae-AIzPUABDuNp3T49c492.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 路过“梅园”,不过梅花的盛景,要追溯的一个月前了。瘦西湖从二月到五月,就不缺花。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/8E/74/CoUBYGBilr2AUcgiABRRPcWNpos004.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 五亭桥,瘦西湖的灵魂,呼之欲出。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/8E/0A/CoUBYGBiloeABSshAAp9RpvHWpE449.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
4.5 五亭桥
因为有风有雨有船,湖面无法平静。如果能映出桥和塔的倒影,那该有多美!
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/8E/AD/CoUBYGBilt2AYdmpAAj1rh8dgtk470.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 现在很冷 ,和冬天没有区别,大家都穿着棉衣。鸭子们能感觉到“春湖水暖”吗?
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/8F/24/CoUBYGBilyeAc6bWAAiMio9qm6A149.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 五亭桥的魅力,我在以前的 游记中写过,不再赘述。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A4/B1/CoUBYGBhzJOAKRGnABQvB3e3gpw029.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 换个角度再看,这是桥的西北 角。如果没有五亭桥,瘦西湖的光彩会减少一半。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/C7/CoUBYGBXap6AaVcuABA93qFgd84268.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 走上桥去。五亭桥是俗称,本名叫“莲花桥”,其实还是五亭桥好听。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A8/31/CoUBYGBhz_yAb73jAA1Xjj2XbwM544.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 北京北海有“五龙亭”,当年给我印象极深。五亭桥比五龙亭更妙。 桥上自然也是一览湖光“山”色的好地方。远处的吹台,成了小不点,近处的岛叫“凫庄”。凫就是鸭子,确实鸭子太多了。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A5/C5/CoUBYGBhzbuAM0URAAipNftO-SQ594.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 这些建筑密布、犬牙交错的小岛是瘦西湖上的一颗颗明珠。如果没有它们,只有一片白茫茫的湖面,该有多无趣。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A5/C9/CoUBYGBhzb6AbmURAAi5m49RDf4330.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 我在亭子里待了很久,虽然游客很多。不过今天好歹是工作日,周五,人多也还能接受。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/CD/CoUBYGBXaqmAUJnSAAnpPt5WZlU630.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 桥栏上的小狮子 很萌。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A8/2C/CoUBYGBhz_iAZW0gAAspeEmz8HY783.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 五亭桥南岸的树荫中矗立着白塔,“白塔晴云”也是重要一景。现在是阴云,但是塔在一片湿漉漉的怡红快绿中别有滋味。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/C9/CoUBYGBXaqCAAirNAA3QznUXGqA676.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 传说这座白塔是盐商们为迎合皇帝一夜之间造出来的。不管怎么说,大富大贵之人的口味有相似之处。 从五亭桥南边走下去。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A8/35/CoUBYGBh0ACAQPMeABLAV7tFF-g371.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 这几棵是海棠,还有紫荆,艳丽无比。五座尖亭像五朵金莲。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/C2/CoUBYGBXapiAedgHABLOrGLTDJY005.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 从东南侧看五亭桥。湖水揉碎了红红的花影。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/C1/CoUBYGBXapaAT19TABRYfMvMhy0620.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A4/49/CoUBYGBhzDmADZVkABU1sww_cGE009.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 我又绕到桥的西南侧,一直围着它转。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A5/35/CoUBYGBhzSiAFP5lABI-_8LL-z8666.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 有十三个桥孔,如果坐船钻孔,一定别有风味。不过穷游还是省点吧。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/CC/CoUBYGBXaqeALTMrAA-oHuaLhtE964.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 姣花照水,弱柳 ,最美时节的五亭桥,我来过了。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/E7/C4/CoUBYGBXapyAPaoxABOKsi4Y1Tc355.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
4.6 玲珑花界
五亭桥的南岸是“白塔晴云”景区。我没有深入,只是到一片樱花林溜达了一圈。成片的白色染井吉野樱,我今年还是第一次见到呢。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A2/C1/CoUBYGBhymGAY33yABnJRwnAn1c795.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 虽然樱花林不大,但可以安安静静地赏花,也是难得。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A3/D5/CoUBYGBhy8CAam4mABk_9gMhlto498.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 这是一棵银装素裹的“大岛樱”,与染井吉野樱的区别在于它有叶子,所以似乎没有那么纯粹。
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/A3/7C/CoUBYGBhy1qAazAtABY9aEgMU70275.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 但是白中带一些新绿,也很好看。 走过这座不知名的拱桥,就来到“玲珑花界”。这个称谓可能指的是四五月芍药盛开时。其实我还是喜欢现在的“桃红复含宿雨,柳绿更带春烟”。
![](https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/DD/87/CoUBYGBh_cOADQaGABOf-EWmJtM023.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 桥栏上的海棠形洞窗,预示着后面将会有大量的垂丝海棠,事实也是如此。
![](https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/DE/0E/CoUBYGBh_maAEVukABPT5fUAo30781.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90)
![](https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s18/M00/DE/63/CoUBYGBh_taAfYM-ABauIQDCPUE042.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90) 粉嘟嘟的花朵,在雨中娇艳欲滴,远处白塔若隐若现。
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