开场的人脸look贯穿始终,也是他的灵感来源:“其实我觉得脸是女人身上最性感的部位。”与此同时,Olivier标志性的设计元素依旧被放大,精准裁剪工艺突显了标志性的强劲肩线。对短外套及短裙进行巧妙变化设计,通过添加娴熟的一体化裤靴设计,确保直筒长裤始终拥有完美的轮廓。
众多配饰及成衣都体现了另一款经典设计,即历史悠久的 Balmain 香水瓶身的角线与图形元素,该瓶身于 1946 年首次由创始人为 Vent Vert 香水推出,并重现于最新的 BALMAIN BEAUTY 系列香水 Les Éternels。如今,香水被时装化,变身为秀场上一个个精致的手袋。
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MUGLER依旧展现了锋利如刀的性感。本季,创意总监 Casey Cadwallader以诡异、性感的未来感展示了29套新设计。灵感来源于他在巴黎郊外的乡间别墅里度过的时间,植物主题在他的设计廓形中很明显,花卉元素被融入更加锋利的女性形象,层叠的花瓣变成立体结构裙装,强化了MUGLER标志性的风格。
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以高定系列而闻名的Schiaparelli,做起成衣线也是毫不含糊。和上一季的轻松实穿不同的是,本季Schiaparelli创意总监Daniel Roseberry以“Future Vintage”为主题,打造出从现在、到未来都能受到青睐的作品。鱼骨束腰胸衣、麻花辫领带、夸张垫肩等标志性元素再度重现。开衩到肚脐的V领、透视上衣结合戏剧化廓形重释了经典。
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穿Courrèges的女人,传递出来的性感是不可忽视的。本季灵感来自莫比乌斯环,勾勒出一个无限循环的世界——透过对重复与简约的探索,描绘出形态的谱系,将 Courrèges 六十载的传承浓缩为一场当代的演绎。
茧型的皮革斗篷,令人联想到织物在水面下雕塑般的动态质感。有关海洋幻想的碎片梦境贯穿整个系列的——羽毛耳饰与斑点印花连衣裙,搭配全新版本的 Holy Bag,营造出灵动水母般的意象,随着每一个波浪的起起伏伏,Di Felice 向人们揭示出了服装的内在结构,释放出身体的表达。
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艺术总监Demna对时装的最初记忆来自祖母家的厨房餐桌——儿时的他在纸板上画一些设计草图,然后裁剪“打版”制衣。35年后的今天,Balenciaga这场时装秀让他回到梦想的原点,向表达态度的时尚致敬。
配有镶饰、刺绣与针织提花的真丝露背礼服性感迷人。“超低腰”靴型牛仔裤、茧型结构短身夹克诠释不羁态度。配有科技针织内衬的高筒长靴与多种经典服饰拼接,塑造别致的“时尚狂人”造型。
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最后出场的几套造型,呼应了创始人CRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA标志性的 HOURGLASS 廓形,经典依旧。
Acne Studios本季灵感萌芽于一个扭曲的家庭场景构想。新装既保留了家庭的温馨气息,又融入了独特的异类韵味。创意总监Jonny Johansson引领我们窥探紧闭门帘背后的秘密。秀场由费城视觉艺术家Jonathan Lyndon Chase匠心独运的全新装置作品,该装置巧妙融合了软雕塑、家具与画作,将日常家居用品——灯具、风扇、水槽、收音机、画框等为Acne Studios 2025春夏系列秀场铺设了一幅生动而富有情感的家庭场景。
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熟悉的事物于此被赋予新面貌,幻化为别致的面料选择与不同寻常的廓形,如垂褶窗帘、蜡质桌布以及衬垫等家中的装饰元素,被巧妙地解构并重塑。服装比例以难以预测的方式被极致压缩或夸张放大,呈现别具一格的混合轮廓,让人不禁联想到家居装饰,宛若在母亲衣橱中寻宝。
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Ann demeulemeester的看秀造型,陈昊宇选择了背头+墨镜LOOK,致意品牌忧郁飘逸的哥特美学。
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这一次,品牌创意总监Stefano Gallici为Ann Demeulemeester设计的 2025 春夏系列呈现了一种原始与脆弱的微妙平衡。Stefano Gallici从他玩音乐和听黑胶唱片的青年时期中获得灵感,为本季注入了一种既内省又轻松的情感暗流。
毛边和天鹅绒衬垫提供了一种未完成的、近乎凌乱的质感;针织衫和牛仔衫强调了这种生活化的风格;精致剪裁的宽肩夹克与轻薄的透明衬衫并置,似乎唤起了Fleetwood Mac等70年代标志性乐队的精神。
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McQueen大秀在巴黎美术学院锐意呈现,以透出光影的利落剪裁,重塑工艺美学。本系列灵感来源于“班西女妖”的故事,于创意总监Seán McGirr而言,这位“女妖”的形象已经成为一些真实有力之物的象征。
利落、扭转的精裁套装颠覆了英式西服的传统。如蛛网一般错综复杂的精细蕾丝经过手工缝制,被嵌入细腻的磨毛丝绸之中,打造出一种未完成的错觉。西服的肩部设计被捏起抬高,呈现出一种街头风格的姿态。
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最后压轴LOOK以传说中班西女妖的梳子为灵感,拖尾由透明硬纱制成,并卷成须状流苏,粼粼波光勾勒身体线条,似乎就是“报丧女妖”的终极化身。
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陈昊宇一袭Giambattista Valli碎花裙装搭配廓形大衣优雅现身巴黎街头,溢出屏幕的恬静气质~
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随后她又以一身优雅大气的白色裙装现身品牌showroom,甜美优雅氛围拉满。
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本季,Giambattista Valli将纤细的轮廓与汹涌的形体交相辉映;短裙摆和及踝长度交替出现,平底芭蕾舞鞋和细高跟鞋并存……府绸、纯棉欧根纱制成了蚕茧褶皱连衣裙、带有蓬松裙的鸡尾酒短裙,以及带有起伏秋千裙的舞会礼服,依旧华美至极。
“笔尖开出的不只是花,它是山也是水,是鸟也是星辰。”Shiatzy Chen2025春夏系列以“笔”为原点,展现本季“点青”之采。
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设计总监Shiatzy Chen女士大面积运用鸢尾花刺绣图腾,以精湛工艺低语诉说着春夏轻如点水的笔痕,精致的细节传递出韵味十足的中式内涵。
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Golden Goose在巴黎时装周期间举办备受期待的「永远的梦想家」线下体验活动。活动选址于巴黎地标性建筑——位于皮加勒广场和蒙马特山丘之间的蒙马特爱丽舍音乐厅(Élysée Montmartre),这座始建于1807年的历史殿堂,不仅是康康舞的诞生地,更见证了包括David Bowie、Daft Punk乐队在内的无数传奇艺术家的辉煌时刻。如今,这座剧院成为Golden Goose致敬巴黎文化的完美舞台。
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「永远的梦想家」活动表演▐
夜幕低垂,一场融合戏剧与时尚的精彩表演拉开帷幕。故事围绕一位年轻追梦者的心路历程徐徐展开,她起起伏伏的成长经历传递着这样一个理念:无论年龄几何,只要心怀梦想,童心永存。这场表演巧妙地交织了梦幻与现实,深刻诠释了Golden Goose品牌倡导的非凡创意与青春精神。同时,Golden Goose揭幕了品牌2025春夏Journey系列,表演者们在演出中展示了该系列的多款亮眼单品。
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Golden Goose品牌全球代言人易烊千玺
出席「永远的梦想家」活动 ▐
在本次时装周期间,H&M Studio 还在巴黎举办了2024秋冬系列限时展览,并于当地时间9月23日晚举办系列发布派对,与来自全球各国的时尚先锋们抢先揭晓摩登复古的秋冬格调。
英国女演员Yasmin Finney、超模Elsa Hosk、英国喜剧演员兼主持人Amelia Dimoldenberg、美国喜剧演员及作家Ziwe和超模Tina Kunakey等知名时尚人士受邀出席,并在MELANIN、Kiddy Smile和Andy 4000的DJ表演中共同将派对气氛推至高潮。派对结束之际,英国新灵魂乐歌手Olivia Dean惊喜现身,以充满魅力的私享演出为这一新锐与典蕴交织的夜晚画上完美句号。
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H&M Studio 限时展览空间在位于巴黎玛黑区的业界领先设计工作室Perron-Roettinger开放,由充满未来主义的金属和富有光泽的红色墙壁相结合,以致敬H&M品牌标志性色调。此外,现场还陈列了为此次巴黎限时展览空间特别定制的限量版H&M Studio 2024秋冬系列牛仔套装和金色皮革枕头包。其中,限量发行20件的牛仔上衣和牛仔裤在系列原有产品的基础上加入特别定制的金丝质感面料,流露低调的奢华质感。
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本季的时装周到这里就结束了,你们最喜欢哪套LOOK呢?我们来年3月再见!
点击查看巴黎时装周的更多精彩大秀资讯:
编辑:Ariana
排版:Yuri
美编:姜黑勒久
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